What Reynisfjara black sand beach is actually like now
A first-person walk on Reynisfjara after the 2026 storms: the coarser sand, the basalt columns, the sea stacks, and how close the waves really get. Honest notes from the shore.
By Björn Einarsson, Iceland South Coast tour guide and local specialist
Access update, checked 25 September 2026: SafeTravel currently restricts Reynisfjara visits to the designated viewpoint. Follow closures and on-site instructions; descriptions of beach, cave and column features below do not establish current access.
The first thing that hits you at Reynisfjara is the sound. Not the sea, though that is loud enough. It is the rattle of the pebbles: thousands of smooth black stones dragging back down the slope every time a wave pulls out. You feel it before you understand it, a low grinding roar under everything.
Want to see the coast alongside its waterfalls? Explore the Reykjavík minibus route with a scheduled Reynisfjara stop, subject to current access. Explore the South Coast route
The 10-hour route includes a listed 30-minute Reynisfjara stop; current closures determine where visitors may stand. See the itinerary and pickup
I have walked this beach in four seasons, and I came back in 2026 to see what the storms had done. The honest report is below, sand and stones and all.
Is the sand still the perfect black powder from the photos?
No, since the 2026 storms a lot of the fine sand is gone and much of the shore is coarse black pebble and grit. If you have seen the drone footage of perfect powder-black sand, set that image aside. After the February slope collapse and the storms that followed, a lot of the fine sand is gone for now, and what is underfoot in many spots is rounded pebble and coarse grit. It is still black. It is still striking. It just crunches instead of squeaks.
Standing there, it did not feel like a lesser beach. It felt like a rawer one. The cliff behind, Reynisfjall, still rises dark and streaked, and the columns are exactly as they were. What the storms took was the softest, most Instagram-friendly layer, not the beach itself.
Are the basalt columns and the cave still there?
The formations remain a feature of the coast, but current access is restricted to the designated viewpoint. The basalt columns at the western end are the reason half the visitors are here, and they are untouched. They stack up like a giant church organ, but visitors must not treat past climbing photos as permission to approach them. These formations reflect volcanic geology, while rockfall and erosion can change the cliff and access below it.
Halsanefshellir sits behind the columns. Current viewpoint-only restrictions do not permit approaching the cave; tours cannot override closures or eliminate rockfall risk.
How close do the waves really get?
Far closer than you think: sneaker waves run up the beach without warning and have killed people here. Here is the part I want you to take seriously. Reynisfjara's waves do not behave like normal waves. Every so often one runs up the beach two or three times farther than the ones before it, fast and silent, a sneaker wave. People have died here, pulled off their feet and dragged into freezing water with a vicious undertow.
I watched a family edge out for a photo with their backs to the sea, and I watched a guide jog over to move them back. That is the whole game at Reynisfjara: never turn your back on the ocean, and remain in the permitted viewing area. If you take one thing from this post, take that. The rest of why you cannot swim here is worth reading before you go.
Is Reynisfjara still worth visiting now?
Yes, a hundred times over; it is still one of the most dramatic places I take visitors on the whole South Coast. Yes. A hundred times, yes. This is still one of the most dramatic places I take visitors on the entire South Coast, and the crowds that keep showing up in 2026 clearly agree. If reaching it means driving Route 1 in winter, though, think hard about whether you want to. The guided day trip from Reykjavik handles the driving and itinerary. Visitors must still follow closures and safety instructions themselves.
What should I expect on the shore right now?
Viewpoint-only access at the latest check, changing shoreline conditions, hazardous waves, and a listed 30-minute stop on selected tours.
| Thing | What to expect in 2026 |
|---|---|
| Underfoot | Coarser: rounded pebble and grit, less fine sand than older photos |
| Basalt columns | Visible coastal formation; do not approach closed areas or climb |
| Halsanefshellir cave | Not accessible under current viewpoint-only restrictions |
| Sea stacks | Reynisdrangar unchanged, offshore to the east |
| The waves | Still deadly; stay well back, never turn your back |
| Time you need | 30 to 60 minutes; tours usually give about 30 |
Choose Your Visit
Initial editorial recommendation. Check pickup and all operator requirements before booking.
Compare Options And Adjust Your Plan
- Iceland's South Coast Full Day Small-Group Tour from Reykjavik: Visit the South Coast waterfalls and the Reynisfjara area in a group of up to 18. 10 hours. Departs from and returns to Reykjavík. Follow current closures: sand, columns and cave access are not guaranteed. Confirm your pickup point.
- South Coast Day Tour Black Sand Beach & Waterfalls from Reykjavik: Combine the South Coast waterfalls and the Reynisfjara area on a shared coach itinerary. 10 hours. Departs from and returns to Reykjavík. Follow current closures: sand, columns and cave access are not guaranteed. Confirm your pickup point.
Iceland's South Coast Full Day Small-Group Tour from Reykjavik
Before arranging your Reykjavík travel day, check the coastal departure and pickup for your date. Current viewing restrictions still apply.
10 hours. Departs from and returns to Reykjavík. Guide; Minibus transport; Reykjavík pickup. Meals and drinks cost extra.
Follow current closures: sand, columns and cave access are not guaranteed. Confirm your pickup point.
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Scheduled departures only. Availability and final price are confirmed on Viator.